
Lucy + Jorge Orta, Homo Mondialis, Photo – Matthew Savage
In 2025, British Textile Biennial (BTB) explored invention and innovation in textile production; through indigenous knowledge to space-age technology, from the earliest form of shelter, the tent, to space suits, and from plant-based dyes to the first polymers.
With artists and designers, BTB25 revisited the textile pioneers of 20th century Lancashire inspired by a bold vision of the future that revolutionised our lives, with companies such as Grenfell in Burnley creating innovative materials that clothed explorers in extreme environments and new, synthetic fabrics such as Terylene made in Accrington that modernised ordinary lives with easy care clothing.
However, these developments pushed the planet and its resources to extremes, so any future advances must look at ways to reset it and learn from a distant past that is almost lost to us.
Highlights of the 2025 British Textile Biennial included a keynote by Carry Sommers, new commissions by Lucy + Jorge Orta, Christian Jeffery, Hannah Robson, åbäke & Le Cercle du S226erpent Bleu and more. Two exhibitions (Pioneers of the Material World & The Synthetic Revolution) that explored Lancashire’s innovation in textiles throughout the 20th Century, a major exhibition by a trio of Mexican artists at The Whitaker, and From the Moor, a first UK retrospective by Burnley raised artist and designer Aitor Throup.

Ivan Forde, Eternal Seas, Photo – Matthew Savage

Press

BBC
Aitor Throup: Meet the Burnley-raised artist and fashion designer

Stored Honey
Everything I think a biennial ought to be

ART AFRICA Magazine
Weaving Memory: Dhaqan Collective on The Aqal (House of Weaving Songs)

Selvedge Magazine
Issue 127: AURORA

Corridor8
The Future Was Always There (review)
2025 Events
Lucy + Jorge Orta
Homo Mondialis
From intricate pieces in embroidery appliqué, to sculpture and immersive video installations, this sweeping survey of the Ortas’ work crossed continents from the Antarctic to the Amazon, reflecting onhumanity’s impact and relationship with the planet.
Jamie Holman
Machine Made Fabric
Inspired by the futuristic inventiveness of Brian Mercer, artist Jamie Holman, worked with young people at Blackburn Youth Zone to create a film which was presented on the state-of-the-art screen built into the new extension of the building, The Fusebox.
Dhaqan Collective
The Aqal (House of Weaving Songs)
Somali artists and producers, Ayan Cilmi and Fozia Ismail, known as the Dhaqan Collective, presented a participatory soundscape using Somali nomadic weaving traditions to connect us to ancient cultural practices that can inspire us to build new futures.
Godfrey Katende & Salford Slow Fashion
Woven Worlds
Salford Slow Fashion (UK) worked with Godfrey Katende of IGC Fashion (Uganda) to create a distinctive fashion collection that celebrated bark cloth – an ancient and culturally significant Ugandan fabric.
Materials Library
The Materials Library explored the origins of fibres that have long clothed and connected us.
Sairo
Fashion Evolution: 2075
Fashion Promotion students in their final year at University of Lancashire presented the future of fashion retail.
åbäke & Le Cercle du S226erpent bleu
RROOUUBBAAIIXX 2033
From Lancashire to Northern France, åbäke & Le Cercle du S226erpent Bleu from Roubaix, traced the story of a vanished football team in a fictional story that showed the enduring power of collective action in the sport, rather than bitter rivalry.
Christian Jeffery
Comfort Ye One Another
Christian Jeffery creates beautiful, hand-painted football shirts. Taking inspiration from cult players, iconic kits, fan culture, local traditions and historical artefacts, his paintings often incorporate plants, flowers and architecture associated with a certain team or city.
OOF
100% UNOFFICIAL: The Fabric of Fandom
This exhibition explored how innovative football supporters have subverted textiles to express their individuality and undying dedication.
Porfirio Gutiérrez
Agency
Based in California, Zapotec artist Porfirio Gutiérrez created work that explored the contemporary and evolving experience of Native Americans.
Melanie Smith & Patricio Villarreal
Tixinda
In this collaboration, the two artists spent time with a Mixtec community in Oaxaca following an age-old, seasonal ritual.
Sarah Rosalena
Red Shift Spiral, Eight Pointed Star and Rose Star
Based in Los Angeles, Sarah Rosalena works between traditional craft traditions and emerging technology, breaking boundaries through her hybrid forms rooted in Indigenous cosmologies, re-interpreted through digital tools and her hand.
Tania Candiani
Centecpanxiquipilli Nocheztl, La ruta de la grana cochinilla and Campo carmín
Based in Mexico City and rooted in specific geographies and territorial histories, Tania Candiani creates work in which body, land, labour and ancestral knowledge are inextricable.
Dhara Mehrotra
Filamentous
Mehrotra’s site-specific installation celebrated mycelium networks that are the circulatory systems of earth.
Emelia Hewitt
As It Happens
Emelia Hewitt undertook a summer residency at the Whitaker to develop work within her photographic and image making practice.
Sally Hirst
Warped
Artist Sally Hirst shared the stories of disabled mill workers William Dodd, Bridget Lyons, and Mary Brown, alongside her own experiences, through weave and sculpture.
Textile Culture Net
Future Past
Future Past is an online exhibition via Instagram presented by Textile Culture Net (TCN) that brings together artists from across the globe whose work explores the often conflicted relationship between humans and the universe through textiles, along a sliding scale of power and resistance TCN is an international network of four textile institutions
The Synthetic Revolution
Curated by academic and artist Claire Wellesley-Smith and fashion historian and broadcaster Amber Butchart, The Synthetic Revolution explored the origins of this story, tracing it back to 1941 when the drawing of a polymer into the first polyester fibre went on to position it at the heart of the modern textile industry.
Ivan Forde
Eternal Seas
Aligned with textile company Bionic Yarn’s repurposing of waste from coastal communities and marine ecosystems to create high performance textiles, artist Ivan Forde uses this material to depict new poetic visions of fictional and real bodies of water across the world.
Clayton Creatives
Why We Wander Over Yonder
Produced by The Clayton Creatives, a group of local residents in Clayton-le-Moors, this exhibition celebrated and explored their shared stories, personal triumphs and losses, journeys and explorations.
Pioneers of the Material World
From peak to precinct, summit to street
This exhibition showed how performance clothing that emerged at the beginning of the last century for survival in the most extreme environments, clothing pioneers from Amelia Earhart to Edmund Hillary, from the Antarctic to the Himalayas, was later redefined by northern climbers, giving rise to brands like Berghaus and Rab, all rooted in northern ingenuity and material expertise.
Aitor Throup - FROM THE MOOR
Secondary Exhibition at OneTwoThree
A smaller FROM THE MOOR exhibition of Aitor’s sculptures and drawings were on show at OneTwoThree.
Aitor Throup
FROM THE MOOR
Internationally renowned artist/designer, Aitor Throup, presented an immersive multi-media event on the Biennial’s final weekend,
Thu - Sun
Ninon Ardisson
LOAM
Artist and games designer, Ninon Ardisson, speculated how textile production in the 20th century might have developed differently if informed by local environments rather than military and industrial demands and how biological materials could shape a different trajectory for innovation.
Re:Fashion Challenge 2025
The idea of creating Utopia fuelled the future visions of the last century, feeding the realms of science fiction and, in turn, being inspired by its creations.
Sarah Lee
Riding a Bike in a Flight Suit
Sarah Lee presented an epic embroidery work exploring histories of manufacturing companies in Lancashire who produced high performance fabrics using innovative techniques.
Sarah Rosalena
Standard Candle and Expanding Axis
Rosalena works between traditional craft traditions and emerging technology, breaking boundaries through her hybrid forms rooted in indigenous cosmologies, re-interpreted through digital tools and her hand.
Crystal Bennes
When Computers Were Women
These four woven pieces were developed from a residency at CERN (the European Organisation for Nuclear Research), the home of the Large Hadron Collider.
Tim Smith
Weaving the Future
This multi-media installation, by photographer and filmmaker Tim Smith, explored how the innovative spirit that powered the textile industry over the last three centuries is driving a new revolution in the 21st century.
Alexis Maxwell
Memory Fabric
An immersive, sci-fi-inspired multimedia installation based on an imagined fabric that holds the memories of local people and the land around Pendle.
Future Fashion Landscapes
Future Fashion Landscapes is a collaboration between Centre for Sustainable Fashion, University of the Arts London and the South East England and South West England Fibresheds, focusing on fibre production and biodiversity enhancement.
Anna Clough
Fold Anew
Anna Clough’s outdoor sculpture, based on the traditional sheep fold, celebrated sheep farming and fleece that have a long legacy in Lancashire.
Kate O'Farrell and Rob St John
Are You Lost?
Are You Lost? Was a multimedia installation from artists Kate O’Farrell and Rob St John.
Hannah Robson
Transformation
Hannah Robson presents a monumental work that responds to the Harris’s archive of the Courtauld Factory in Preston in the impressive newly opened spaces of the museum.
Mon-Sat, 9am–5pm
Thu, late until 9pm
Sun, 11am–4pm
The Textile Study Group
Seven Bags Full
A new group exhibition from the Textile Study Group a group of nationally and internationally recognised textile artists and tutors.
Margo Selby
Breathing Colour
BTB reached Lancaster for the first time with Margo Selby’s beautiful textile hanging, Breathing Colour, a celebratory textile installation, immersive in colour, form and sound, joyful and uplifting.